Top Notes 
Aldehydes
Bergamot
Cassia
Hyacinth
Raspberry
Heart Notes 
Iris
Rose
Ylang-ylang
Jasmine
Geranium
Base Notes 
Amber
Styrax
Civet
Honey
Oakmoss
Patchouli
Yatagan
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Yatagan
Top Review
54
The Phantom
Uncommented Fragrances No. 144
In this case, I once again follow a trail laid out by Luca Turin. In his compendium "Perfumes. The A-Z guide" (2008), Missoni (1981) was one of the few fragrances I had not yet encountered - and which seem to be virtually lost. This is also evident here on Parfumo with the lack of comments or statements, both for the perfume and the EdP. The perfume has just six ratings and as many owners, while the EdP has no indications at all. Nevertheless, Luca Turin dedicates an extensive review to the fragrance and summarizes that it gives one "the uncanny feeling that the perfume is alive and gradually composes itself. Most perfumes are quickly fading photographs; this one, however, is a film" (quote LT).
For years, I had been keeping an eye out for the fragrance that Maurice Roucel was particularly proud of, and for the past few months, I had been systematically searching for it until I finally stumbled upon an affordable miniature with perfume (!). Of course, you can clearly tell the age of a fragrance from the 80s that has evidently been off the market for a while and is also a phantom of fragrance culture. I also want to point out again that it would have smelled different fresh out of production. Nevertheless, from my perspective, most of the listed components are easily identifiable, and Missoni (1981) is a gem from the 80s, provided you have a heart and an open nose for floral scents.
The perfume is composed around a chypre texture (bergamot, rose, jasmine, moss, and a bit of patchouli), but is initially dominated by sweet, heavy floral notes, which, however, lack the penetrance of some white floral compositions. Instead, the fragrance is lushly adorned with rose, geranium, and other flowers, creating a rather sweet harmony. Resinous and fruity tones also contribute to a rounded overall impression, where the aldehydes only become noticeable after a while. They do not appear in the top notes, as in many other fragrances, but must first assert themselves against the overwhelming sweetness of the flowers. The tingling of the aldehydes (often I can best describe them with this impression) provides, along with the mossy and animalic notes, a minimal disharmony that adds tension to the fragrance.
It is noteworthy that Missoni quickly loses its intensity during its development, becoming simpler and more wearable, and almost develops a green freshness. Luca Turin mentions a mint note. One might perceive it that way.
In fact, the fragrance undergoes a metamorphosis from pure harmony (flowers, fruity tones) to a subtle dissonance (animalic, moss) and finally to meditative calm (wood, resin, green note), which is why the impression quoted above from Luca Turin, that the perfume is alive and creates itself, is not entirely unfounded.
A fragrance with a life of its own, with development, with character: 1981, those were the days my friend.
In this case, I once again follow a trail laid out by Luca Turin. In his compendium "Perfumes. The A-Z guide" (2008), Missoni (1981) was one of the few fragrances I had not yet encountered - and which seem to be virtually lost. This is also evident here on Parfumo with the lack of comments or statements, both for the perfume and the EdP. The perfume has just six ratings and as many owners, while the EdP has no indications at all. Nevertheless, Luca Turin dedicates an extensive review to the fragrance and summarizes that it gives one "the uncanny feeling that the perfume is alive and gradually composes itself. Most perfumes are quickly fading photographs; this one, however, is a film" (quote LT).
For years, I had been keeping an eye out for the fragrance that Maurice Roucel was particularly proud of, and for the past few months, I had been systematically searching for it until I finally stumbled upon an affordable miniature with perfume (!). Of course, you can clearly tell the age of a fragrance from the 80s that has evidently been off the market for a while and is also a phantom of fragrance culture. I also want to point out again that it would have smelled different fresh out of production. Nevertheless, from my perspective, most of the listed components are easily identifiable, and Missoni (1981) is a gem from the 80s, provided you have a heart and an open nose for floral scents.
The perfume is composed around a chypre texture (bergamot, rose, jasmine, moss, and a bit of patchouli), but is initially dominated by sweet, heavy floral notes, which, however, lack the penetrance of some white floral compositions. Instead, the fragrance is lushly adorned with rose, geranium, and other flowers, creating a rather sweet harmony. Resinous and fruity tones also contribute to a rounded overall impression, where the aldehydes only become noticeable after a while. They do not appear in the top notes, as in many other fragrances, but must first assert themselves against the overwhelming sweetness of the flowers. The tingling of the aldehydes (often I can best describe them with this impression) provides, along with the mossy and animalic notes, a minimal disharmony that adds tension to the fragrance.
It is noteworthy that Missoni quickly loses its intensity during its development, becoming simpler and more wearable, and almost develops a green freshness. Luca Turin mentions a mint note. One might perceive it that way.
In fact, the fragrance undergoes a metamorphosis from pure harmony (flowers, fruity tones) to a subtle dissonance (animalic, moss) and finally to meditative calm (wood, resin, green note), which is why the impression quoted above from Luca Turin, that the perfume is alive and creates itself, is not entirely unfounded.
A fragrance with a life of its own, with development, with character: 1981, those were the days my friend.
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